where I work

Good morning and welcome to my studio!  My studio is the spare bedroom of our two-bedroom apartment where I live with my husband in the Astoria neighborhood of Queens, NYC.  It is in the back of the apartment, with two windows overlooking the “courtyard” (a nice way of saying that I can look into my neighbors’ apartments across the entranceway – I always wave!).  It’s small, (about 10′ x 12′), quiet, warm and gets a bit of sunlight for a few hours a day – my little slice of heaven.

The door with the “hats” decal on it is the entrance door; the other two doors are to two shallow closets, which are perfect for me.  In the left one hangs all of my patterns, and in the right closet are shelves with bolts of fabric.  The decals are left over from a tradeshow that I did a while ago – I found them recently during a clearout and thought I’d put them to good use.  The shelves in between the closets house lots of my reference books, as well as stacks of tissue paper and hatboxes for packaging finished hats.  Behind the “hats” door is my little packing area with a small table, and stacks of shipping boxes.  

A bit of my work table in the foreground, and my iron which sits on an ironing board just in front of it.  This is where I do all of my pattern drafting and fabric cutting.  I use all the mirrors when I’m designing and need to check a hat from different angles on myself.  In the corner are more bolts of fabric and rolls of pattern paper and oaktag; fancy hat and wig carriers; and on the shelves are vintage hat blocks and display heads. 

My little workhorse of a sewing machine where I sit for many hours.  From that vantage point I can gaze out the window, or watch a movie on my computer while I do my handsewing.  To the right in the picture are shelves with lots of supplies; and in the corner is my little photo snapping area.  The boxes stacked up on top of the shelves contain my inventory and samples – the stars are post-its that list what’s in each box.  The photo strip hanging between the windows, just over my sewing machine, is of my grandmother and my father in about 1930 when he was about 3 years old, taken in a photo booth in Atlantic City.  My grandmother is elegant as always, wearing a beautiful cloche.  I love that they watch over me as I work. Here’s a close-up:

The last picture is my desk and inspiration board above it.  The desk is just a frosted glass tabletop that I got on clearance at Ikea for $9.99, and it sits atop two red file cabinets.  Perfect size and height.  My inspiration board is separated into four sections, one for a calendar, and then a section each for spring/summer, fall, and winter/holiday.  I used to change out the whole thing regularly, but then was always coming across things or ideas that I wanted to hold on to and explore for a different season than what I was currently working on, so I broke it up this way.  It also helps me to see themes or arcs for the entire year.

I’ve got post-its all around my computer with reminders, positive messages, my UPS guy’s cell #, etc.  The “sassy” sign is a gift from a dear friend and acts as a prop for little gifts and finds that remind me of dear ones and lovely times.  Add a cup of tea, a little music or NPR, and let the fun begin!

Thanks so much for stopping by for a visit!  I hope your day is happy and peaceful…

hello there

 

winter

And how are you?  I know it it’s been days and days since I’ve written but I’m here, keepin’ on keepin’ on. Feeling very quiet.  Life seems to have sped up and slowed down, all at the same time.  Does it seem that way to you?  I’ve been sticking pretty close to home, head down, working away.  Experimenting really, with how I work.  It’s a fun adventure and I’m so grateful for the time and space that I have right now.  Money is tight and sales are slow, but that’s to be expected.  It’s fine really and quite freeing, in it’s own way.  The extra time has allowed me to focus on designing and trying things that may lead me somewhere wonderful or nowhere at all. Just joyful creating. And we’re staying in NYC for the time being.  Bruce has decided to not continue with the new job in Vermont.  It just wasn’t the right fit, and though it’s not the best of times to turn down financial security, it’s always the right time to follow your instincts and I’m proud of him for that.  I think we’ll end up in Vermont eventually as we do love it there, but we want to go with full and happy hearts.

So in between working, I’m making holiday cards and gifts and I have a couple of loved ones with birthdays this time of year too.  My friend Mark’s birthday was yesterday, and the image above is from the book I gave him to celebrate.  Mark is a very talented musician and the book was an old children’s songbook, published in 1900.  All the songs are about nature and how to care for it – very au courant – and there are lovely illustrations throughout.  So beautiful, and I think Mark really liked it. 

Beginning tomorrow, I thought I’d share more of my process, both designing and making.  I’ll start with some pictures of my little studio, where I’ve been spending so much time.  Until then, I’ve been making weekly shop updates and there are a few new hats there, including more Fedorables, for which I’ve had some requests.

Be well, stay warm, and thanks for stopping by.

taking a little break

 

sheep in the cotswolds

Today I’m off to the wilds of Manhattan for supply sourcing and to fill up on art.  A few of my stops will be:

art in odd places

ny art book fair

chanel mobile art

I’ll be taking a little blogging break next week to finish up a couple of projects and complete my holiday collection.  Have a fantastic week!

how to measure

I frequently get requests for custom orders, or to custom-size one of my designs. Though the conversation continues by me asking for a few head measurements, I find that worded descriptions for the information I need can be confusing to someone who is not familiar with the process.  I thought this would be a good place to provide a few visuals, and would be helpful to anyone who is shopping for a hat, especially online, or thinking about making a hat for themselves. Your favorite milliner or hat designer may ask for other measurements, but these four are a good place to start, and should be more than adequate should you be stitching for yourself.

You will need four things: a mirror (or a good friend), a pencil, some paper, and a soft tape measure.  

soft tape measure with both inches and centimeters

This one is especially pretty – I bought it in France and it has the history of costume on the reverse side!

soft tape measure - reverse side

One thing to remember as you measure, is to make sure that you are consistently noting the measurements either in inches OR centimeters, whichever is appropriate.  If you do not have a soft tape measure, you can use something like a ribbon.  For each measurement, mark the ribbon where necessary and then place it  alongside a hard ruler or yardstick. 

There are many measurements that might be needed to decide if a hat will fit you properly, or for custom millinery, depending on the style, but I find the following to be the most useful for the type of work I do:

1. head circumference - level

1.  Head circumference – level:  for this measurement, you want to measure around your head at the widest part, over your hair (if you have any).  Start just above one eyebrow, and keep tape level and above each ear.  Note where the tape meets.  This is generally known as your “head size”.  An average woman’s head size is generally anywhere between 22″ – 24″ (55.88cm – 60.96cm).

2. head circumference - hairline

2.  Head circumference – hairline: for this measurement, you are going to measure around your head, over your hair, but following along your hairline, staying behind your ears and under your “brain bulge”.  Note where the tape meets. This measurement is usually, but not always, smaller than measurement #1.

3. over head, ear-to-ear

3.  Over head, ear-to-ear:  for this measurement, run the tape measure over the top of your head, from just above one ear to just above the other.

4. over head, front-to-back

4. Over head, front-to-back:  for this measurement, run the tape measure from the center of your forehead, just above your eyebrows, over the top of your head, to the nape of your neck (which is at your center back hairline).  If you are alone, it’s easier to go back-to-front, starting with the end of the tape at your nape.  Hold it there and run the tape forward so that you’ll be able to see the measurement in your mirror.

I hope that’s helpful and makes sense!  Please let me know if you have any questions.  Happy hat shopping!

designing, making, working

 

sewing

Hello there!  I’ve been working on new designs, sewing, and tackling various other business-related projects.  Hope all is well where you are.  I should be back in a few days with some new “hats of the day”.  In the meantime, may I suggest you pop over to Design for Mankind and read the latest issue of Mankind Mag?  And have you seen this studio?  It is now a permanent fixture of my dreams…

end of an era

roosevelt island, nyc

I’ve been feeling a bit wistful and nostalgic lately. Not sure why, but I’m guessing it’s because I’m on the cusp of another big change in my life. For me change always brings up memories of things that used to be, some I miss and some I was glad to see go. That, and I spend way too much time lost in thought on a regular basis! I was dreamy as a kid and just never grew out of it.

I’ve been thinking a lot about two hat-related endings recently. The first is that Manny’s Millinery Supply in NYC is closing its doors, after 60 years in business. I have been so sad ever since I heard this news. Not that I shopped there much at all – in fact, I think its been years since I stepped through their door. And truth be told, Manny’s customer service left a little to be desired. I have distinct memories of being in the store, requesting an item which was displayed directly behind the clerk’s head, and them looking at me like I was absolutely crazy to think they carried it and no, they were so sure they didn’t have it and they wouldn’t even turn around to look. And this was almost every time I went in there. Sheesh! Part of the New York charm I guess. But every once in a while I’d think, gosh, it would be fun to experiment with ________! And I would know that they were the only place in town to get it. Just last week I wanted some millinery elastic and thought of them. Since I make all of my hats with thread and fabric, I haven’t had much use for Manny’s supplies on a regular basis since I stopped making costumes. What I need I can usually get at a regular old fabric store or sewing supplier. So I guess in a way I’ve contributed to their demise, for which I am sorry. I have such respect for hatters that use traditional techniques – it’s so difficult to really master them, and so essential to have access to quality supplies.

The other hat-related ending I’ve been thinking about, and this one goes under the “I’m always the last to know” category, is the death of Casey Bush, who was the founder of the Headwear Information Bureau. OK, she died in December of 2006, but I just found out, so it feels like it just happened. Casey was from the old school, such an energetic and passionate supporter of milliners and did so much to, as she would often say, “keep hats hot!”. When we lived in Manhattan we were right down the street from her penthouse and base of operations, and I would run into her in the neighborhood and then later at trade shows. She was extremely supportive, down to buying hats from me, and if she stopped by my trade show booth and I wasn’t there, she’d leave sweet little notes to let me know how much she loved wearing my creations. She is and will be sorely missed.

So, the hat landscape is definitely changing. My hope is that there will always be room for the traditional craft of millinery, as well as modern takes by hatters like me.

In the spirit of remembering the past, the photo at the top of this post is from a walk we took a couple of weeks ago to Roosevelt Island, which lies in the East River between Manhattan & Queens. It really is like another world from the rest of NYC – quiet and slower-paced with wide-open spaces. Roosevelt Island was originally used for municipal institutions such as prisons, poor houses, and nursing homes – a dumping ground for all the outcasts of the rest of the city. Now, like the rest of NYC, it is being gentrified, with lots of new condominiums being built and some of the old hospitals being converted to luxury housing. At the southern tip of the island, which was only recently re-opened to the public, is one of the old Victorian-era hospitals, in all its decaying glory. Here are a few more pics:

roosevelt island, with manhattan skyline

roosevelt island, grand entrance

roosevelt island, two windows

roosevelt island, ghostie

I just love the little ghostie graffiti in the last shot – so appropriate.

Hope you’re having a lovely Monday!

Terry

sweet smell

vintage doily & perfume bottles

Had a very busy day today…worked at my part-time gig (only two months to go!), and then in the studio planning and designing for fall, and a little bit for right now.

I wanted to pop in and congratulate the lovely Erin of Design for Mankind on the smashing success of issue #1 of Mankind Mag!  It is so beautiful, inspiring and a really great read.  Erin is an amazing gal, and such an incredibly supportive presence in the blogosphere.  I highly recommend taking a gander, if you haven’t already.  Click here to preview, download or purchase.

Hope you had a terrific Tuesday! 

refreshing

Frozen grapes – my favorite summertime treat!  We always keep some in the freezer and I like to have them as a refreshing snack when I’m in the studio.  Especially when I’m designing new styles and things aren’t going as smoothly as I would like.  But do they ever really?  I’m trying to have more realistic expectations and allow myself the time to work through everything to their best conclusions.

A week or so ago, I was thinking about my design school experience.  My undergraduate degree is in theatre (performance, of all things – what was I thinking?!?!), and after a couple of years I went back to graduate school for fashion design.  The design part of the program was not good for me at all – it was geared toward what I call “career-girl-wear” with no room for other areas like accessories.  To be fair, it was a very tiny program and the women who were running it had no experience outside the “career-girl” sphere, so they didn’t even attempt to guide/teach anyone who had divergent interests.  The technical training was fantastic, however, so I stayed long enough to complete those courses and am happy I did.

I was always a school geek.  I loved school and most everything about it – loved learning, loved books, loved the opportunities to expand my horizons.  I loved most every subject (yes, even math!).  I counted down the days of summer vacation because I couldn’t wait to go back in the fall.  Heck, I even loved taking tests.  I loved the challenge of tests and the opportunity to show both myself and my teacher what I had learned.  I have been thinking about the tests that we had in design school, and yup, I loved them too.  We were told what tools we would need, the students showed up and claimed a work table.  Then we were given a design problem to solve, and would have 2-3 hours to make a finished piece.  Stressful but fun!  

In an effort to free myself up and work a bit faster, I been starting my days in the studio for the past week or so with what I now call the “Two-Hour Challenge”.  I’m loving it!  I haven’t actually had a finished piece in those two hours, but boy, I have certainly learned a lot and moved much closer to a resolution then I would have normally in that period of time.  It’s really fun, has helped enormously with my concentration, and I can easily get some quality design time in, even on the days when I work at my part-time gig.  I feel refreshed!!  

I’m making sure to document my process with pictures and notes.  As soon as I have a finished piece, I’ll share the entire journey with you.

 

fun with silk & vintage lace

I’m having some fun today, just playing with softer fabrics like the striped crinkle silk pictured and thinking about using vintage lace for trimming.  It’s really a different experience to work with such soft fabrics, as usually I’m trying to create stiffer structures and need fabric with lots of body to hold the shapes I’m going for.  But I’m wanting a dreamier, softer, more romantic feel for the styles I’m working on now and I do have some lovely silks and really soft cotton seersuckers in my fabric stash that have been begging to be used.  Did I ever tell you that I never use interfacing with my fabrics?  No?  Well, it’s true.  I just hate the stuff, whether it’s iron-on or sew-in.  Could be from all those years making costumes where it felt like you always had to fight with the fabric and everything had to wear like iron to stand up to the rough-and-tumble backstage world.  I hate fighting with fabric (or anything for that matter).  I really work to allow the fabric and the seaming to combine and naturally do what they want to do, real peaceful like.  That way, nobody gets hurt.

Hope you’re having a peaceful weekend too.